Malus purpurea - The bigger one
Malus purpurea - The bigger one
Current height: approx 30 cm till the cut on the top primery branch
Trunk caliper (diameter ) at the ground level (DGH ): 12 cm
Collected: Central Bohemia in 2012
Pot: training
This is the second one of my purple crab apple. Collected at the same place as the small one. So it has been "pruned" by the highway maintenance workers now and then. While the tree has developed quite nice trunk under the cutting level of the machine used to keep the woods and bushes in a reasonable distance from the highway there was a heavy cut on the top of the trunk. Well, I was quite hesitant to collect it - on my last visit the tree looked quite good but the early spring maintenance has removed most of new top branches. Finally, I have decided to go for it. There was no future for the tree on this spot and I may move it to a better/safer position in the woods in my neighborhood.
Dec 2015 - The tree after repotting
A nice trunk line with promissing base and nicely ageing bark but problematic taper and a big cut on the top.
Once I have finished the repotting I have made few pics to help me to find the way forward.
Woods or a pot?
My place for bonsai is quite small and with a queue of trees prepared for the collection in 2016 I simply cannot keep trees with a potential below a certain threshold ( that is getting higher every single year... ).
Finally, after spending some time just watching and studying the tree I have decided to keep it. The idea is to build a crown from the branch on the right ( last but one pic ). The branch on the left will be reduced significantly but it will stay there. At least for the time being - I plan to use the long shots there for thread grafts. The lowest branch ( see on the first pic ) will go now and I will try to bring this part closer to the main trunk to get better taper ( This is one of the technique developed in Japan I believe. I first noticed the application of this method on a Acer campestre published in 2001 by Werner Busch in his book "Bonsai" p47 in Czech edition).
First of all I have drilled several holes into the deadwood on the top. Then using several tools ( mainly chisels and burrs ) I have removed a layer of wood separating the bark with a thin layer of wood from the rest of the trunk. ( the bark is still connected to the tree on both sides and on the bottom part to allow the sap to circulate there and heal the wound later on. Hopefully ). Before using the jack I have made a slit with a hand saw into the bark so it can be brought closer to the trunk section by section.
fig 1
The first section of bark pulled up closer to the main trunk closing ( nearly ) the drilled hole.
fig 2
Top view
fig 4
A crack on the side
fig 5
The left side adjustment. Now both sections of the bark are connected so before making another few turns on my jack I need to take the saw and widen the slit - see fig 6
fig 6
The process described in fig 5 and 6 has been repeated several times until both sections get onto the same level. With this approach I have managed to get a tight connection between both sections so the cambium is connected in most parts of the slit now and I hope it will cover the wound with layers of new wood within the next few years.
The tree will stay in the non frost area for the rest of the winter.
I plan to share the pic showing the tree after the intervention in the spring or early summer. Just a plain superstition...
Current height: approx 30 cm till the cut on the top primery branch
Trunk caliper (diameter ) at the ground level (DGH ): 12 cm
Collected: Central Bohemia in 2012
Pot: training
This is the second one of my purple crab apple. Collected at the same place as the small one. So it has been "pruned" by the highway maintenance workers now and then. While the tree has developed quite nice trunk under the cutting level of the machine used to keep the woods and bushes in a reasonable distance from the highway there was a heavy cut on the top of the trunk. Well, I was quite hesitant to collect it - on my last visit the tree looked quite good but the early spring maintenance has removed most of new top branches. Finally, I have decided to go for it. There was no future for the tree on this spot and I may move it to a better/safer position in the woods in my neighborhood.
 |
| Autumn 2014 |
Dec 2015 - The tree after repotting
A nice trunk line with promissing base and nicely ageing bark but problematic taper and a big cut on the top.
Once I have finished the repotting I have made few pics to help me to find the way forward.
Woods or a pot?
My place for bonsai is quite small and with a queue of trees prepared for the collection in 2016 I simply cannot keep trees with a potential below a certain threshold ( that is getting higher every single year... ).
Finally, after spending some time just watching and studying the tree I have decided to keep it. The idea is to build a crown from the branch on the right ( last but one pic ). The branch on the left will be reduced significantly but it will stay there. At least for the time being - I plan to use the long shots there for thread grafts. The lowest branch ( see on the first pic ) will go now and I will try to bring this part closer to the main trunk to get better taper ( This is one of the technique developed in Japan I believe. I first noticed the application of this method on a Acer campestre published in 2001 by Werner Busch in his book "Bonsai" p47 in Czech edition).
First of all I have drilled several holes into the deadwood on the top. Then using several tools ( mainly chisels and burrs ) I have removed a layer of wood separating the bark with a thin layer of wood from the rest of the trunk. ( the bark is still connected to the tree on both sides and on the bottom part to allow the sap to circulate there and heal the wound later on. Hopefully ). Before using the jack I have made a slit with a hand saw into the bark so it can be brought closer to the trunk section by section.
fig 1
The first section of bark pulled up closer to the main trunk closing ( nearly ) the drilled hole.
fig 2
Top view
fig 3
Almost an inch closer to the trunk now
fig 4
A crack on the side
fig 5
The left side adjustment. Now both sections of the bark are connected so before making another few turns on my jack I need to take the saw and widen the slit - see fig 6
fig 6
The process described in fig 5 and 6 has been repeated several times until both sections get onto the same level. With this approach I have managed to get a tight connection between both sections so the cambium is connected in most parts of the slit now and I hope it will cover the wound with layers of new wood within the next few years.
I plan to share the pic showing the tree after the intervention in the spring or early summer. Just a plain superstition...
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